Modern Gretsch Guitars

so………. adjust-o-matic VS. Tune-o-Matic………………. go …

1

so.......... adjust-o-matic VS. Tune-o-Matic................... go ! And.... Why is the tune-o-matic so much cheaper ?

2

Some are different sizes, both in the size of the object overall and the spacing of the posts. Haven't the foggiest if that's what effects price. Maybe one isn't made from chromed pot metal?

5

You can get Tune-A-Matics (current adjusto..is the same thing) in a bunch of different price ranges. You'll have to be a little more specific with the question...?

6

AFAIK the Gretsch TOM style bridge is just a Gotoh ABR-! style thing. I like the Gibson no-wire ABR-1 because it doesn't rattle and sounds really good. It has brass saddles. The cheaper ABR-1 style bridges will have mazak (pot metal) saddles which won't sound as good.

FWIW I have tried the Callaham ABR-1 on several guitars. Beautifully made, but to me it sounds too hard. It might suit a lot of players, especially if they use a lot of dirt. But I like the sound of the Gibson best. Warm and clear. It might be cast from some terrible material but it sounds good to me!

7

The Gretsch Pro-line Adjustomatic is a Gotoh tuneomatic with no retaining wire. It's a quality bridge.

8

I put a Resomax TOM w/Graphtech saddles on my Super 400. You have to choose what post size, ... there are a couple options for various make guitars.

$100 bucks, worth every penny....

9

whats the best source for these options ?

10

I still have the 'factory installed, German made' ABM 2400 roller Adjust-O-Matic on my 7594B and have no, none, zero, zilch issues with it. (or rattles)

11

Hermitt,i had one of those roller bridges on my 96 Country Classic I ,and it was terrible . I had bits of cardboard stuck in between the saddles as they would rattle ,buzz and move about and strings would jump outta the saddles .

I never had the guitar long enough to change it.

Glad you're not having any problems sir.

12

whats the best source for these options ?

– DeVille

let me know what you want, I'll get it for you wholesale. You've done a lot for the old nocturne pedals in our beloved rockabilly brotherhood. Email me.

13

Hermitt,i had one of those roller bridges on my 96 Country Classic I ,and it was terrible . I had bits of cardboard stuck in between the saddles as they would rattle ,buzz and move about and strings would jump outta the saddles .

I never had the guitar long enough to change it.

Glad you're not having any problems sir.

– JCHiggy

It could be because I'm usually using .013-.056 gauge strings. I'm actually going to change soon to .014-.067 gauge LaBella Black Nylon Wrapped strings. But I do drop the tuning to C-F-Bb-Eb-G-C.

14

It could be because I'm usually using .013-.056 gauge strings. I'm actually going to change soon to .014-.067 gauge LaBella Black Nylon Wrapped strings. But I do drop the tuning to C-F-Bb-Eb-G-C.

– Hermitt

no wheels allowed on the hardware please..

15

no wheels allowed on the hardware please..

– TheNocturneBrain.com

You mean I can't get the matching roller nut?

17

Seems that bridges and the Rock and rollers feature so frequently on the GP,me included. Still cannot understand all the price and rattle aspects of bridges on Gretsch guitars which I love.I have a 6120 DSV with rocking bar bridge and it's great,twang and sustain and low action.Got a 6120 with what I thought was pro line bridge, wire and rattles like hell so some frequent use of clear nail lock to sort it! On a guitar that retails in UK for £2500 new! crazy.JUst bought a Gibson Chet Atkins Gent and great bridge.For the last twenty five years I have played Fender Strats and no issues .Lucky I guess.Maybe a bridge too far.Great that we can get such amazing advice on the pages.

18

The original bridge that came on my 6122 was of the "no-wire", TOM variety and it had a rattle problem from Day One. Tried "everything" (probably not, but it was frustrating).

Ultimately, a much more youthful me solved it by setting the whole shebang at a seriously acute angle to the strings in order to keep tension on the guide screws, and trying to compensate for the attenuation issues that caused by placing it in a sweet spot for the two middle strings and using the entire length of the adjustments on both ends. It worked- sort of almost, if you get my drift. It also may have helped the premature failure of the bridge base just before the wiring harness went south in 88.

When I had it rebuilt about six years ago, a new no-wire TOM bridge went on a new base, and it's been fine ever since.

Don't know why the original one rattled, but I just couldn't stop it.


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