Miscellaneous Rumbles

Anyone have a right-side front ABS sensor for a ‘95 Lincoln Mk VIII?


Tim, if you can find the "specs" of that sensor, you may be able to find an industrial sensor that could would. Yes, custom mounting would be needed for it.

These types of sensors are pretty basic, as they just send a signal out when a magnet passes within its' range. The key is the distance from the face of the sensor to the face of the hub with the magnets.

Max pulse rate is also important, but probably not an issue, as most sensors can read at an extremely fast rate.

The only other spec needed is whether the sensor's output is PNP or NPN. I'm guessing that it's PNP. Some sensor's are one or the other only, and some are both. Wiring diagrams/specs of new sensors will state what it is.

Most sensors will have the same "function" capability, but the issue is the "form/fit", which OEMs love so it can't easily be replaced. They love making a goofy housing that snaps in place on the application.

Bottom line, there's probably an industrial unit out there, but you'll need some specs to get a unit with the same function. Depending on space limitations of where the sensor is mounted, a threaded barrel type sensor may work. I would definitely look at either a stainless steel/washdown capable unit, however there are plastic units that can meet this spec too.

Now wiring, you'll have to reuse your connector/plug that is on the OEM unit.

You probably already knew this stuff, but just trying to help out some. Best of luck with this situation.


Well, I knew in general what the piece amounted to after looking at it, talking to the mechanic, and reading a bit in the forums. It's a friggin' pickup!

Your other details are new to me - PNP, NPN, I don't know.

And yeah, it was obvious all the voodoo is in the mounting - the shape of the housing and its angle into the hole. That, and whether - as you say - there are space limitations or other constraints in actually getting it mounted. The mechanic was able to find REAR wheel sensors for the car, whose barrel housings into the hub have a different angle of approach. Said he thought about drilling a new hole into the hub to accommodate that, which I'm not opposed to - but he was unsure about any clearance issues that might pose.

There's GOTTA be a parts car SOMEWHERE in these untied states with the part I need.

Barring that, the trick with improvising/fabricating something will be finding someone with the simple willingness to take it on. There are an awful lot of parts-replacers in the auto-repair business (which is what the whole industry is built on, I get it) - and not so many ingenious/resourceful fabricating mechanics.

And, again - how much should anyone care that this car brakes safely again? This is just the little piece that breaks the whole car, and now I'm supposed to just dispose of it, right?


Tim, PM your VIN to me, and I'll see what my "KC Dogs" can find in this area.


A little bit of shad-tree spitballing here, but can the housing be saved separate from the guts? If so, then it may be that the range of models that a new switch could be sourced from can be expanded to anything that will "fit in the box", so to speak, so long as the polarity spec agree.

When I had my Liincoln(s), I learned that sometimes the issue of the 'unique-to-Lincoln' (extreme) pricing could be solved by saving the housing and sourcing the bits inside the housing from a different model. Worked for me with a Galaxie door latch on the 1960 Premiere that dropped straight in, then later for a couple of power window motors on my '67, though the housing for the r/f window lift needed a new hole drilled in it so a tab on the motor seated correctly.

It made sense at the time (and still does) that instead of ordering up as many as 45 or 50 unique and different electric motors, the company would spec out maybe a dozen (to cover the basic types of vehicle they will be installed on), then spec out the less expensive, soft metal, molded plastic or nylon housings to fit around them and thus make them unique to the actual model of car (and then be able to charge more as a bonus).

I'm thinking that if we can save the shell, which may be the only bit that makes it so unique to the Mk Viii, then maybe scoring the guts the guts from a Mustang or other Fox-bodied Ford and fitting them into the shell of the Mk 8 switch might be the way to go.

Do you have the non-working switch still, and more- can it be "opened" and the guts replaced (regardless of what the manual might say?)


Well...I think the mechanic - believing parts can always be ordered - tore it all up pretty well in getting it out of the hub. So, yes, we have the parts. But the business end is pretty mangled.

HowEVer, perhaps the guts from another could be shoehorned into the housing, yes.

Though I think part of the mangling involved the threaded plastic sleeve breaking off in the hub.



Well...I think the mechanic - believing parts can always be ordered - tore it all up pretty well in getting it out of the hub. So, yes, we have the parts. But the business end is pretty mangled.

HowEVer, perhaps the guts from another could be shoehorned into the housing, yes.

Though I think part of the mangling involved the threaded plastic sleeve breaking off in the hub.


– Proteus

Still, another non-working switch in good nick otherwise could probably be had from most junkyards, thus giving you a starting point?

At least you'd have one you could try and take apart that way.


Yessir. Good approach.


You'll find your part, or its updated aftermarket alternative. No worries...it's good to keep a nice older car in safe and reliable condition. I know!

I took my '99 E320 4Matic into the Dealer to be Inspected this past Monday. There is no Inspection in NV, just like no Inspection in SC.

I bought it off Lease May 2002 with an extended 5 year Warranty. I swore when the Warranty ran out, if I spent $3000 two years in a row I would need to consider another car. I think I just reached $3000 since the Warranty expired. The car "pays me" every month...

I have found my Anti-Dealer here in Reno, which the Dealer acknowledges as a worthy alternative for most things. But, letting M-B check the car out every 4 years or so has its benefits. My Anti-guy on Daniel Island, SC was superb, ... a Porsche Restorer. He checked everything last October, and since ~5250 miles.

All expectations are that I will have a parts stream for 20+ more years...if I am that lucky, it has been a great car. Both the Tech and the Service Manager offered to buy it! The 99 is the last Model year of the W210 platform, ... the easiest to Service.

On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 meaning that an aspect of your car just broke down leaving you stranded...none of them could find anything past a 1.


Yup to all. I'm told Ford has already discontinued parts for some 2010 vehicles. There oughta be a law, as they say.

– Proteus

So cars are now made better than ever and are built to last longer, the manufacturers just don’t have to make replacement parts even for 10 years? This reminds me of having to go up through the inner fender of my wife’s Subaru in order to replace a headlight. And I have heard of worse examples. There should not only be a law but also a jail for such captains of industry.


My trailer-hauler (an '04 Dodge Ram 1500) needs a special tool just to change the headlight!! It's like a mid-sized torx-head, but it has to have a bit of an offest to it or you simply cannot reach one of the fasteners. Purchasing that tool cost me as much as the new projector beam headlight bulb did.

Whatever happened to plugging in the replacement from the back?


I didn't even think of junk yards but that's a great idea, if you haven't yet and some will even reach out to a national database that will till you if there is one anywhere in the USA to be had.

So cars are now made better than ever and are built to last longer, the manufacturers just don’t have to make replacement parts even for 10 years?

The industry cried like a baby a few years ago and now it IS a law. They have to provide parts for vehicles up to ten years old. I personally don't think that's long enough. Enough cars become disposable and I expect the government will get involved again. If they are going to allow it though then aftermarket manufacturers should be privy to engineering specs, IMO, so replacements can still be made available. The manufacturers were crying about shelf space for parts. It does take up room in a warehouse but geeze.

Kevin, Some German vehicles in our shop require removal of the entire front bumper cover, to access headlight bulb changes. It's ridiculous and I can't even look up a set of wiper blades without a VIN #, these days.


When I had my F150, it needed a new brake line. They said that the part was "discontinued". (because WHY would you make replacement parts for the most popular and plentiful truck on the entire planet?) They did a "special order" and when I picked it up, it was just a generic $10 straight brake line that they bent up with pliers (complete with kinks and teeth marks from the tools) and charged me $93. It didn't even look anything like the old line. I protested. They said "No refunds on special orders."


Thanks for the link, Manny, I'll try'em telephonically. (Their online search doesn't come up with the part.)


Thanks, Twang. Some Ebay options there I hadn't found before. I have the mechanic looking at them. Might be headed for the road!


You may need to buy 2 to get 1 in the Used Category. As Manny said, the modern Junk Yard is completely computerized and Online. They will have a wreck on the lot, and send a guy out to retrieve the parts. You can go and do it yourself, too.

Lots of CA Car enthusiasts use this place in Reno - Pick and Pull



Hey hey hey!

What are we looking at here?


You might have guessed from context that it's the center console and instrument readout of a 1995 Lincoln Mk VIII.

But what's significant about the picture?

Hint: it's what you DON'T see that matters. (But I have an acupuncture appointment at the moment, so I'll make the dramatic big reveal a little later.)

(Not that anyone should care.)


You stopped Smoking at 3:46am in a 23yo, 75F degree car tuned to Public Radio, with a Door ajar?


If anyone needs a 1951 Chevy straight 6 truck engine and transmission, holla!


Isn't this the Tradin' Times? :)


Yah yah, ok.

NPR, yessir. 75°, yes. 3:46 PM. Door was open.

But, of course, what you DON'T see are the ABS warning light and Trac Assist light that are NOT on, because yon olde Lincoln is on the road again...with ABS fully functional.

All thanks to the GDP in general, and TwangmeisterNYC in particular, whose timely Ebay search found exactly the right part, fully functional, for a great price. Badda bing, in it went and that was that.

Who would come to the GDP to find car parts, right? But once again the community comes through, and a big thanks to Twang. In fact, 50.00 worth of discount on a Tru-Arc, should you need one, or a gift cert to Amazon or something, if you prefer. I'd looked on Ebay previously, but had kinda given up - and I wouldn't be on the road had you not taken the trouble.

It's great to have the Lincoln rolling safely again.


I just didn't want to junk this over such a small part.


I mean, sure, it's got a little over 100k on the odo, but it really is a sweetheart - and I've tried to take good care of it.

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