Here's a post I made on the www.Surfguitar101.com site in regards to the reverb tanks ("G-Spring") that I build and the way they are built.
This applies to ALL my amps.
Thanks for letting me clarify.
"Ok... No disrespect but here are some differences/things I've noticed.
-Uncle Spot (US) has a 1yr warranty on his unit. Mine is
5 year transferable.
-US does not include a Fender footswitch ($35) and cover ($45). Mine are included in the price.
-US is built off a turretboard. Mine are built like Fender (ala tagboard) with a "custom" eyeleted fiberboard.
-US builds AND tolexes all his cabinets by himself. Mine are not. I pay the price for a professionally-built premium cabinet by a cab manufacturer and everyone who has bought the G-Spring has been stunned by the work done (fit and finish) on the cabinets. I have to have them shipped from across the country so there's a cost associated with that. Honestly, I don't make money on cabs unless I buy 30 or more at a time. The last production run was 10.
-It appears US purchases his 16 gauge chrome chassis pre-screened. My 16 gauge custom-built (not bought from a third supplier) chassis actually has a separate control plate (just like Fender did) that is custom screened and installed. This costs money for the steel plate and the screening.
-US uses chicken head knobs. I use the era-correct genuine Fender barrel knobs. A minor point.
-My unit has all jacks made by Switchcraft and switches by Carling. Not cheap but best on the market.
-I use a larger gauge wire which conforms to standard UL-1015 600V in all my amps that is plastic AND lacquered cloth insulated. It is more difficulty to work with than the original push back wire Fender used back in the day but makes for a safer, better wired, less flimsy, longer lasting and tonally better sounding amp/unit. There is more work involved with this wire but the proof is in the sound and reliability.
I don't know which wire US uses but if it's the old Fender style wire (now being reissued) that is only cloth insulated and is thinner in gauge I could shave quite a bit off the price if I used it in my products --because of the less labor needed.
-All grounds in the chassis of all my amps are soldered directly to the chassis steel for reliability. I do not use screws to establish grounds as I don't feel it's the most reliable if you're an actively gigging musician.
-All sockets are ceramic for heat tolerance.
-Power cords are the same he uses. Looks like we use the same source.
-I test every amp I build for at least a few hours or more for the lowest noise floor and select the best tubes (with regard to price and availability)to do this. Takes time to do as some tubes don't get noisy immediately.
Lately, three out of every five tubes I have purchased from current manufacturers are good for use in my amps. The other two are too noisy and/or microphonic for use and are not used. This takes time to weed out.
-I don't have custom/fitted shipping cartons (although I am working on this area). I personally ship every amp and line every box with 1.5-2" poly foam board (cut to size) and bubble wrapped where necessary for the safest delivery protection as possible. I ship the tubes in all amps separate from the amp head/combo for safe delivery.
I won't say anything bad about US but there are some differences between his unit and mine that need to be pointed out. He probably makes a good unit. I've done what I can to build my amps as good as I believe they should be built for price and performance.
Uncle Sam/Federal Government takes 35% off the top of my profit and I do report my sales.
When you do the math on Excel for every part and hour spent and then the tax bite you'll find the left-over profit isn't as much as you think.
The Surfer retail price is $2499 (dealer price)--not $2800.
....finally..they are not gold-plated.
Thanks for the time to clear things a bit...
Dario"