Other Amps

Belton Reverb Tank

1

What do you guys think of this Belton? Less decay time as say the Mod 8EB2C1B. I guess this won't be compatible with the 63 Reverb RI but when I originally posted this I thought it did.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rev...

Thanks

2

Personally, I like reverb tanks with less decay time because so many amps seem to create reverb overkill where the sound goes from nothing to "Grand Canyon" between 2 and 4 on the reverb dial. Especially blackface Fenders.

3

What would make you think it might be compatible to the Fender re issue?Number system tells you its totally incompatible.For the RI you want a 4AB3C1C.If you are looking for a shorter decay time you could use a 9AB2C1B but you would have to mount it on the bottom of the cab if you have room.Not a fan of the Belton tanks,I've used these http://amprepairparts.com/r... in a couple of outboard reverbs I've built and like them a lot.

4

For the RI you want a 4AB3C1C.

The "3" being the crucial number in that code when it comes to decay. A "1" in that spot designates "short", "2" stands for medium, "3" for long decay.

Otherwise, as long as they're 8 ohm input impedance and 2250 ohms out, you can swap out tanks in Fender blackface/silverface amps and outboard tube reverb units to taste with no harm to amp or tank. The 10ohm input short/small 3 spring tanks you typically see in a Princeton reverb work too.

Decay times between brands vary too, and vintage Gibbs and vintage or modern Accutronics tanks tend to be brighter than the MOD/TAD/Revisit tanks (the black ones) you can get from various vendors.

5

For the RI you want a 4AB3C1C.

The "3" being the crucial number in that code when it comes to decay. A "1" in that spot designates "short", "2" stands for medium, "3" for long decay.

Otherwise, as long as they're 8 ohm input impedance and 2250 ohms out, you can swap out tanks in Fender blackface/silverface amps and outboard tube reverb units to taste with no harm to amp or tank. The 10ohm input short/small 3 spring tanks you typically see in a Princeton reverb work too.

Decay times between brands vary too, and vintage Gibbs and vintage or modern Accutronics tanks tend to be brighter than the MOD/TAD/Revisit tanks (the black ones) you can get from various vendors.

– WB

That's been my experience also. I settled on a MOD 17" med decay pan in my deLisle Nickel Box which has tube driven onboard reverb. An Accutronics pan sounded a bit too metallic with less usable reverb from 1-10 on the dial while the MOD pan sounded fatter, deeper and provided more usable reverb tones 1-10. That being said, outboard reverb units are a much different animal than onboard reverb. Onboard reverb in most cases share two pre-amp tubes while an outboard unit, like a '63 Fender, is like a small amp with a power tube and two pre-amp tubes along with controls for dwell, mix and tone. I just acquired my first outboard reverb unit (a sort of clone of a '63 Fender that shares the same circuit) and it came with an Accutronics 4AB3C1B pan. I assumed that I would probably replace the Accutronics with a MOD tank, but I'm actually pretty happy with the sounds I am getting with the Accutronics, especially after swapping out the stock 6V6 tube for a NOS 6K6GT (which were the appropriate tubes for that '63 Fender circuit). It didn't sound bad with the 6V6, but the NOS 6K6 tames the highs and the unit no longer pushes my amp into overdrive when the reverb is cranked up. Swapping the 6V6 for a NOS 6K6 is a very common mod for the Fender '63 Reissue tanks. A lot of folks who post over on the Surf Guitar 101 site prefer the Accutronics pans for outboard units because they get "drippier" than the MOD pans. Regarding Belton pans, Belton actually owns Accutronics however the Belton made Accutronics pans are generally considered better sounding than the Belton branded pans which always seem to be the pans getting changed out for Accutronics or MOD pans.

6

Yes,the "3" or 4th symbol in the 4AB3C1C determines the decay,in the outboard reverbs you have to pay attention to the last symbol,the "C",in this case.It determines the intended position for the particular unit.I've found in the outboard units if you use a tank intended for horizontal,open side down insallation, in the vertical position in the outboards it will squeal like a stuck pig.

7

Some of the Asian made 17" pans seem to suffer from some oscillation issues when turned up in combo amps. I taped strong cardboard to the bottom of my Mod pan with weather stripping along with a thick strip of high density foam rubber on the top of the pan and then put it in a vinyl tank bag and I haven't had any problems. Unlike the original and reissue Fender outboard tanks, the pan in my outboard tank is attached to the bottom of the cab and not suspended by springs but vibration is not an issue as it is a separate unit from the amp.

8

What would make you think it might be compatible to the Fender re issue?Number system tells you its totally incompatible.For the RI you want a 4AB3C1C.If you are looking for a shorter decay time you could use a 9AB2C1B but you would have to mount it on the bottom of the cab if you have room.Not a fan of the Belton tanks,I've used these http://amprepairparts.com/r... in a couple of outboard reverbs I've built and like them a lot.

– stokes

Because I didn't look carefully at the specs and initially thought it was for the 63 Reverb but later figured it out it wasn't but still was curious about the brand of reverb tanks if they were thought of in you all's opinion is good or not so I left my original post up with the edit. Thanks for the link to the tank you like. I may get one because you have tried it and you like it.

9

Not a fan of the Belton tanks,I've used these http://amprepairparts.com/r... in a couple of outboard reverbs I've built and like them a lot.

Pretty sure the Revisit tanks from amprepairparts.com are rebranded MOD pans (which are good pans). Do you find the Revisit/MOD pans get surf music "drippy" enough in your outboard reverb builds? I understand that not everyone is looking for that "drippy" sound. I have heard that a good 3 spring long tank, while not delivering the surf "drip" can get some pretty serious amounts of fat cavernous reverb in an outboard unit.

10

Decay time is determined by spring tension. To shorten the reverb carefully stretch your springs a little. Pinch the end by the transducer and stretch from the middle, one half at a time.

11

My favorite reverb tank for my Magnatone amps is the old Folded Line ones made in Wisconsin. Nobody else likes them but I think they give the largest usable sweep and aren't tinny sounding but more like a room to church on your dial

12

I always hear that the old USA made Gibbs pans sounded really good and were bullet proof. Even the older USA made Accutronics pans have their issues......It’s not uncommon for the wires that go from the input and output jacks to the reverb transducers to break right where they go into the white plastic push-on connectors. The green and black wires are pressed into the back of the push-on connector, and the connector has an insulation-piercing blade that slices through the insulation and makes contact with the wire. Unfortunately, the blade sometimes nicks the wire and it breaks right there. I had this problem with the stock made in the USA Accutronics pan that came in an older Fender Blues Jr but I was able to fix it myself. Apparently, on the MOD pans and newer MIK Accutronics pans this has been improved however there can be other issues with these pans, especially the Accutronics with overall build and tone consistency.

14

The TAD pan is also more than likely a re-badged MOD tank. No doubt the TAD pan sounds deeper and has a much longer "tail" than the stock tank. I wonder if the stock tank was an original Gibbs or a USA Accutronics? If the original pan is old, the springs could be a little fatigued or stretched out which would also reduce the tail or dwell. IMO, the MOD pans with their longer dwell/tail and deeper reverb tone really help in a combo amp which generally have a weaker signal to the pan and even more so in a combo amp that has a transistor reverb circuit (a MOD pan swap in a Fender Blues Jr is a significant upgrade IMO). However (and this is just my preference) in an outboard tube driven unit, for my taste, the longer dwell MOD pans are a bit too much. That being said, I could still see myself experimenting with a MOD pan in my Fender '63 clone (pans are usually under $25.00) just to be sure.


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