Other Amps

63 Fender Blonde Bassman Volume Question

51

FWIW F+T make dual 25uF caps and they're a similar size to those pictured in the amp. I suspect the cardboard sleeves of the originals would just slip over them if you are so inclined.

I'm a big fan of F+T. Had a couple of dubious experiences with recent Spragues, which are not what they used to be. Tavo is righter than right about replacing those electros. Would you drive a car of that age on the original tyres?

And DEFINITELY agree with Otter - fix that AC cord.

52

I haven't read every single word of this thread but did anyone mention a built in mod to lower the watts?

Okay I have a circa 1977 Fender Deluxe Reverb that I bought about 1997. It needed some work so I brought it to our very own Billy Zoom and he fixed it up and he added a mod that when you flick the toggle switch in the back of the amp it drops the watts. I believe that Billy calls it a "Billy Zoom Exclusive". I don't know if it is considered an attenuates because I am not an amp tech or electronics whiz so I don't know that physics behind it. Maybe Billy can chime in on this mod. He said under I think 3 on the volume it won't work but it kicks in above that. He can explain why.

If you have an amp tech who can do something like this you may look into this and see if it works for you. Or maybe buy an attenuator like those suggest here. Before you ask if I find it useful I really don't go above 3 so I haven't used it much at all but I do thank Billy for installing that so next time my friend from back east (we grew up out here but he lives back east now) visits in August I'll test it out because my friend likes to crank up the amp. I am sure it works well because Billy would not have installed it if it didn't.

In fact I think he put that in my circa 1973 Princeton Reverb. I just play up to about 3 or 4 on that so I don't really use that switch but like I said my friend who likes to crank up amps is visiting so I'll mess with the switch when he is there. I could do it but I really play around 3 or 4 on that and on the DR I play about 3 so I don't use it often but it's a nice option to have.

53

"I haven't read every single word of this thread but..."

Sigh.

54

The F+T 2x25uf caps are even bigger than the originals. They are giant. I just use two small ones.

55

I haven't read every single word of this thread but did anyone mention a built in mod to lower the watts?

Okay I have a circa 1977 Fender Deluxe Reverb that I bought about 1997. It needed some work so I brought it to our very own Billy Zoom and he fixed it up and he added a mod that when you flick the toggle switch in the back of the amp it drops the watts. I believe that Billy calls it a "Billy Zoom Exclusive". I don't know if it is considered an attenuates because I am not an amp tech or electronics whiz so I don't know that physics behind it. Maybe Billy can chime in on this mod. He said under I think 3 on the volume it won't work but it kicks in above that. He can explain why.

If you have an amp tech who can do something like this you may look into this and see if it works for you. Or maybe buy an attenuator like those suggest here. Before you ask if I find it useful I really don't go above 3 so I haven't used it much at all but I do thank Billy for installing that so next time my friend from back east (we grew up out here but he lives back east now) visits in August I'll test it out because my friend likes to crank up the amp. I am sure it works well because Billy would not have installed it if it didn't.

In fact I think he put that in my circa 1973 Princeton Reverb. I just play up to about 3 or 4 on that so I don't really use that switch but like I said my friend who likes to crank up amps is visiting so I'll mess with the switch when he is there. I could do it but I really play around 3 or 4 on that and on the DR I play about 3 so I don't use it often but it's a nice option to have.

– ThePolecats

blasphemy.. Fender blondes were made for 4 yrs in American History. Do not every do anything to them but restore them to their original operating condition. If you want a Blonde 6G6-B that has low power and high power as well as SS recto and Sag options, buy a Blondeshell :)

56

Tavo true, don't want to make an un-reversable mod on such a rare short produced amp.

I'm not sure what Billy's mod is made up of though but he calls it a Billy Zoom Exclusive so maybe he won't say.

57

Tavo true, don't want to make an un-reversable mod on such a rare short produced amp.

I'm not sure what Billy's mod is made up of though but he calls it a Billy Zoom Exclusive so maybe he won't say.

– ThePolecats

Billy wouldnt modify a blonde, he would a silverface though. :)

58

Tavo that's funny. Guess he's partial to blondes. LOL.

59

I'd mod a 6G6B or whatever. I just wouldn't do anything that couldn't be completely undone without leaving a trace. Guitars and amps are tools that can be easily improved.

60

I'd mod a 6G6B or whatever. I just wouldn't do anything that couldn't be completely undone without leaving a trace. Guitars and amps are tools that can be easily improved.

– Billy Zoom

Billy, that mod you did to my amps is great. It made the DR more playable when I needed it not so loud. I was missing with it yesterday on the DR. The PR I haven't played recently though. Thank you Billy.

61

BTW, it's called the Billy Zoom Multi-Watt mod.

62

I know Ive said this before...but this time i mean it. Im finally ordering the Capacitor Kit for the caps in the dog pan and the 3 E-caps in the main tray.

Illinoise, F&T as well as Sprague Atoms will work fine from what Tavo said and most other sites have recommended. But, the difference I see is with Price...BIG difference!

Amprepairparts offers a "KIT" where all the caps (F&T) needed to do a complete replacement is included with the dog houses resistors as well for around $35

Vs. Sprague Axial Atoms are more than twice the cost at around $85 for just the 6 caps!

are the Spragues just that much better? or is it their dimensions that are similar to the stock caps to retain a more "vintage" look?

either way, ill be using the original cardboard covers for the new caps to retain the vintage "stock" look so thats not a problem.

one more silly question...

are new resistors required as well? i wouldn't think so unless they have sustained damage somehow...but then again I have absolutely "0" experience with this.

and obviously I will be cutting out that resistor in the normal channel to wake up the tone as well... I read that on the "Cap Job" article seen earlier seems like a simple enough mod to do.

63

Axial caps are for the look and convenience of replacement and as msuch are always more expensive. Radial ones function just as well. Apparently collectors want to look inside the amp and see out of spec parts. Which implies they aren't going to use them which makes me think they shouldn't own them...but that's opinion.

These are mass produced commodities not works of individual artistry. If you plan to keep it and use it, modify away. Generally most everything is reversible anyway.

Personally I've never been able to hear how cool my amp looks.

Though I do appreciate amp aesthetics (though not internal aesthetics, just a job well done.) what I really like about an amp is how it sounds when I play music on my guitar through it.

64

I had a 40 watt Blues Deluxe, A completely different amp than yours, but set the volume knob at anything above 2 and the neighbors are calling the cops. There is alot of talk of linear vs. taper pots, but with an amp like yours I dont think changing out the pots would make a huge difference in volume. Like others here have noted, a good attenuater would probably be the way to go.

– LA_Manny

Why don't you try setting the volume on the amp to 10 and adjusting your guitar volume?

65

Why don't you try setting the volume on the amp to 10 and adjusting your guitar volume?

– Pt

hell why don't I set the oven to 1000 degrees and flash cook a turkey! haha no but seriously I've tried that route and its not practical and a tone killer as well.

as for the aesthetics of it...I completely understand where your coming from as Im on the same page as you when it comes to function over form. so thats why I stated if its just a size difference between the 2...besides, even the spragues that are similar to the size and shape of the originals still are blue as ever in color....ill just fit the vintage tube cartridges over whatever capacitor I have for shits and giggles.

I dont intend on selling my amp anytime soon anyway.

66

Did you ever replace the power cable in this amp?

Sprague Atoms are often touted as the best on guitar forums. I've used them and F&T caps in my amps with equally good results.

67

Been a great thred . My 6g6b sounds great at any volume. My super reverb sounds much better loud! The mids don’t kick in till around 4. Might try 5881s in the SR...

68

Did you ever replace the power cable in this amp?

Sprague Atoms are often touted as the best on guitar forums. I've used them and F&T caps in my amps with equally good results.

– Otter

From my experience with building etc, most of the electrolytics available seem good and reliable. These are just the power supply filters and basically you want ones of the correct values. The make isn't a huge deal. If you want them to look right by all means spend the $$ to do that but it isn't necessary for function.

People do get tetchy about caps in the audio path, but even there I tried dirt cheap caps and more expensive caps with NO audible difference. In the end do whatever makes you feel best if money is no object.

Think of it this way Leo Fender was a business man. Not a guitar player searching for the perfect tone. He bought the cheapest parts that would do the job with sufficient reliability so that he could make the best profit from his business.

oh yeah and do what Otter said, Put a three pronged plug on it with the earth ground securely to the chassis.

69

I did change them earlier this year...the tubes made all the difference since the first post...I haven't done any more mods to it since. work, family and day to day life gives me only a window period to play the guitar without the amp turned on.

But, the holidays are upon us and family will come visit soon, so that gives me the perfect chance to ditch em' and lock my self in the garage from time to time. So Im really looking forward to the cap job ill be doing soon.

and the ground plug will come too...

70

also...I did this little quick mod last night took out this little resistor thingy like the article mentioned...and wow! it really improved the tone on the amp...bass feels tighter and the mids and highs are much less bogged down.

71

It was a capacitor to eliminate most of the treble. Remember this was the Bass channel of a bass amp.

72

well...shit just got serious! cap kit arrived!

73

One thing about filter caps, higher value ones aren't a bad thing and can sometimes be an improvement. A higher value cap eliminates more hum and one with a higher voltage rating and higher temperature rating is just plain built better and will last longer. When picking out filter caps, pay less attention to brand names and exact specs and more attention to going a little higher on values.

Leo would have used higher value caps in his amps but he was worried about production costs. A cap that cost a dollar more was a big deal for him but maybe not to you restoring an expensive amp.

A typical scenario would be some guy frustrated and tearing his hair out looking for a 30/30/20 canister cap rated at 450v to restore his amp.

Seriously, dude, put that 40/40/30 500v cap you found that was a bargain online and you'll be better than fine.

75

I see metal oxide resistors in that bag..please dont put one of those in place of the slope resistor. Use good old carbon film

– THE NOCTURNE BRAIN™ (actually loves hippies)

NOTED

So, since I won't be using the supplied resistors, is it ok to just keep the stock ones in place? I saw that in the article you sent, the guy didn't change the resistors. Im guessing it should be fine to keep them...but Im no expert.


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