Modern Gretsch Guitars

Streamliner Question


Has anyone felt the urge to or actually replaced the nut in their Streamliner? Asking for a friend. Not really, a gold 2655T popped into my feed on this morning for $399 with a hard shell case. The listing included the “Make an Offer” button, so I decided to see if they’d take $375. They did.

The Gretsch website says the nuts are made from “synthetic bone,” but they don’t go so far as to say whose synthetic bone like they do with the Electromatics (Graph Tech NuBone), so I kind of wonder whether they’re the same, or whether synthetic bone is a lower-priced (and potentially less-desirable) substitute for NuBone, which is itself a lower-priced (and potentially less-desirable) substitute for Tusq. And I kind of wonder whether I’ll be able to tell the difference.

But if someone’s already been through this, I’d love to know about it.

My UPS guy and I have to stop meeting like this.


It's more important whether the nut is cut properly than what type of synthetic bone, Tusq, etc it might be made of.


I’ve only had my Streamliner g2655TG-P90 for a couple of weeks but haven’t felt the need to replace the nut. Granted, I don’t play out and don’t need to be as particular as you, but the guitar seems fine as is. It’s a different Gretsch sound and thus far has stayed in tune okay. Try it as is. You might agree.


I'd replace the nut Frank as IMO, any type of plastic is inferior to bone for hardness. All good luthiers use bone on their new guitars and Gretsch does on its TOTL guitars. When you have the new nut slots cut I'd recommend you check the alignment of the slots with their respective tuners. On most post-FMIC Gretsches I have to assume both E strings line up directly with their slot, however the inboard 4 slots should be angled slightly to their respective tuners so the front edge of the nut becomes the break point, not the back edge! I went over this in another ongoing thread regarding tuning issues, most of which reside with the nut.


Thanks, Windsordave, and everyone else. I plan to try it with the existing nut, but am expecting it to be inexpensively-made, which makes me think twice about having its slots worked on when I might be better off with a bone nut. My new 5422 is having tuning issues, but I put .011s on it and Joe C. set it up with .010s so that may have a bit to do with it.

I’ve been playing all the usual suspects trying to choose the guitars I want to use in preparation for this weekend’s gig, and I think all my guitars are mad at me for going out of town for a couple weeks because none of them will stay in tune. Not even the Reverends.


$375 plus a case sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Congrats.

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