Modern Gretsch Guitars

Streamliner Question


Has anyone felt the urge to or actually replaced the nut in their Streamliner? Asking for a friend. Not really, a gold 2655T popped into my feed on this morning for $399 with a hard shell case. The listing included the “Make an Offer” button, so I decided to see if they’d take $375. They did.

The Gretsch website says the nuts are made from “synthetic bone,” but they don’t go so far as to say whose synthetic bone like they do with the Electromatics (Graph Tech NuBone), so I kind of wonder whether they’re the same, or whether synthetic bone is a lower-priced (and potentially less-desirable) substitute for NuBone, which is itself a lower-priced (and potentially less-desirable) substitute for Tusq. And I kind of wonder whether I’ll be able to tell the difference.

But if someone’s already been through this, I’d love to know about it.

My UPS guy and I have to stop meeting like this.


It's more important whether the nut is cut properly than what type of synthetic bone, Tusq, etc it might be made of.


I’ve only had my Streamliner g2655TG-P90 for a couple of weeks but haven’t felt the need to replace the nut. Granted, I don’t play out and don’t need to be as particular as you, but the guitar seems fine as is. It’s a different Gretsch sound and thus far has stayed in tune okay. Try it as is. You might agree.


I'd replace the nut Frank as IMO, any type of plastic is inferior to bone for hardness. All good luthiers use bone on their new guitars and Gretsch does on its TOTL guitars. When you have the new nut slots cut I'd recommend you check the alignment of the slots with their respective tuners. On most post-FMIC Gretsches I have to assume both E strings line up directly with their slot, however the inboard 4 slots should be angled slightly to their respective tuners so the front edge of the nut becomes the break point, not the back edge! I went over this in another ongoing thread regarding tuning issues, most of which reside with the nut.


Thanks, Windsordave, and everyone else. I plan to try it with the existing nut, but am expecting it to be inexpensively-made, which makes me think twice about having its slots worked on when I might be better off with a bone nut. My new 5422 is having tuning issues, but I put .011s on it and Joe C. set it up with .010s so that may have a bit to do with it.

I’ve been playing all the usual suspects trying to choose the guitars I want to use in preparation for this weekend’s gig, and I think all my guitars are mad at me for going out of town for a couple weeks because none of them will stay in tune. Not even the Reverends.


$375 plus a case sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Congrats.


So did you make a decision on the nut yet? As stated above, I’m happy with mine as is. However, I decided on a brass Serpentune yesterday just because I believe this will be an improvement even without any current complaint. That and this thread got me wondering if I should might as well splurge on a nut as well.


No decision on the nut yet, I just got the guitar a couple days ago and haven't had a lot of time with it yet. It's got skinny .010 strings on it and it doesn't seem to bind in the nut at all, but it doesn't stay in tune well, either. It could be slop in the tuners (they ain't top quality, but I've seen worse), or it may need to reacclimate after its transcontiental journey in a brown truck. I would usually go up to .011s on a guitar with this scale, but I'm gonna keep it all bendy with these .010s for now until I get the tuning issues sorted out. Here it is in its new habitat:

And I was right about the case:

Way too big for the 2655T, but it fits my Swingster, and the day after I discovered that, Chicago Music Exchange put a 2655T case on sale for $89 with free shipping. Problem solved.


Nice looking guitar. Congrats.

I am not really too concerned about the tuning yet. However, having won the guitar, I feel I have a degree of freedom to spend some money on it. Although I have several regular Tru-Arcs, no Serpentune was in the mix. So I went for it just because. Along with a possible nut, I might also go for a Reverend spring as well as the Bigsby is stiff. Time will tell.

Senojnad recommended for tuning issues. Worked like a charm for him on his Broadkaster Jr. You might want to consider this. Good luck.


Yes, I ordered 3 Reverend springs this morning, one for this guitar (the Bigsby is very stiff), one for my Eastman ES-295-wannabe, and one for the next time I want to try a Reverend spring on a Bigsbified guitar.

I bought a Biggsfix for my Japanese Ibanez Talman TC-825. It was having miserable tuning issues, and that fixed it right up. I may consider that for this guitar, too.

I really do like the neck and the way it feels. The pickups may have to go, though. Or at least I'll likely have to try some others. But for what it is, it's a dang nice guitar.


You nailed it - it’s a nice guitar with a nice neck. I am very happy with it. If my son doesn’t act on my offer to give him this guitar if he takes lessons, I can see pickups being upgraded in the future. Not complaining about the existing ones but can see this as a great modding opportunity. Now I’m thinking about the biggsfix .


I played it some more today, and it stayed in tune better than on previous days. Maybe it's settling in, maybe I'm getting used to it. I have no idea how old the strings are, but they don't look or feel old at all, they may be new and are stretching out. Still not sure what to do with the guitar (besides play it, which I will do). But I do like the neck, and the strap button isn't really a problem at this point.


Nice guitar Frank, I'm glad it working out for you. That was a great deal for the guitar and case, enjoy!


Try loosening the Bigsby screws closest to the bridge. The flat base of the Bigsby doesn't really like the curved tops of some guitars and if it is screwed down too tight the body of the Bigsby flexes but the shafts don't making the operation feel very stiff.


Thanks Mr Tubs. I might try this tomorrow.

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