DIY: How to pin a bridge.

Time to show how pinning a bridge can be done. The patient here is my mate’s pre Fender 6120 SSU.

Step 1: Before you start, remove the pick guard for easy access and make sure your bridge is positioned right. It should be angled a bit for easy intonation and the strings have to be evenly distributed over he neck and pickups. In some cases, the pickups don’t line up the way they should. In that case, the string spread over the neck is more important. When you’re done, mark the position of the bridge with tape.

Step 2: Make template of the bridge base. Reduce the string tension and slide a piece of paper or thin cardboard under the base and trace out the it with a pencil. Cut it out and mark the bass and treble side, up side and bottom side.

Step 3: Mark where the pins are going on the bridge base. In this case, I modelled it after the factory pinned bridge of my Power Jet. I taped the template to the Power Jet’s base and rubbed a pencil over the template to reveal the holes. If you don’t have this luxury, the holes are right next to the bridge posts on the outer sides.

Step 4: Drill the holes in the template with a drill bit. No need to use the drill yet.

Step 5: Tape the template to the bridge. Remember the up and down side, bass and treble side or your pins might not line up. Mark the holes with a pencil. I taped the bridge to the base for quicker reinstallation.

Step 6: Drill the holes in the bridge base. The pins I’m using are 3mm headless hex screws. Use drill bit that is one size bigger than your pins. (Sorry, I forgot a pic of the result)

Step 7: Tape your template to the guitar exactly where the base is supposed to be and mark your holes with a pencil. Remember up, down, bass and treble sides.

Step 8: Time to drill the guitar! I put some transparent tape over it so the finish won’t chip or crack and I can still see the marks. Pre drill with a bit one size smaller than pins. In this case 2mm. Drill the length of the pins. Next, use a drill bit that’s the same size as the pins. In this case 3mm. Only drill 2mm deep or so. Just enough to keep the pins upright in the holes.

Step 9: Screw the pins in. Use a hex key and apply a bit of pressure until the threads get some grip on the wood. Make sure the pins stay straight. Patience!

Step 10: Fit the bridge and base. If, for some reason, the pins don’t line up with the holes in the bridge, drill out the holes another size bigger. Done!

Wow, nice writeup! I think I could do this, but is it worth it? My bridge is taped down, will it give me any improvement in tone? Also, where did you get those hex pins? Thanks!

Great job Ratrod! I absolutely love it when members do tutorials because I find them so informative. Thanks for going to all that effort. Hopefully this thread can eliminate the countless questions so many seem to have about pinning a bridge.

+1 up Dude!

Bax. Ought to find a permanent, easy to access area for this kind of thing. This topic does come up from time to time,,,,

My guitar guy asked me if I wanted him to pin the bar bridge on my 6120DSV while he was doing the setup, but I told him no. I have a pinned bridge on my Tennessean, but that's an adjustable bridge. I figure that if you pin an adjustable bridge, at least you still have some flexibility because of the individual "sliders," but on a bar bridge, once it's set, that's it. I don't push the bridge around when I play, but even if I did, it would be easy enough to find the right intonation spot. Plus, I may want to try some other bridges in the future.

But then again, maybe I should do it. :grin: Are there any other advantges/disadvantages to pinning a bridge?

I think you have the advantages and disadvantages already covered audiodrome. I'd only pin a bridge if it was adjustable like the Synchro-sonic or adjust-o-matic. That being said, if you are confident in your setup (bridge, string gauge, etc) and don't plan on changing it you could pin a bar or Bigsby bridge without any major issues. You could also drill more postion holes in the bridge base to allow it to be some what moveable.

Thanks for the comments, folks!

My theory is that pinning is better than taping because:

1. tape or glue mutes vibrations from the bridge that has to be transferred to the top.

2. Who wants sticky stuff on their tops?

@ Wenzel: I had these around but they should be available at any hardware store.

The Norm said: Bax. Ought to find a permanent, easy to access area for this kind of thing. This topic does come up from time to time,,,,

I'll go beyond that; I think it should be required reading for all new members with spot quizzes and sacred oathes. :nice:

Seriously RatRod, this is very good info and very well presented. It's also the only method of pinning that I like. No brads showing through and it's invisible. If you ever want to un-pin the bridge you can unscrew the set screws and you are back in bidness with an up-pinned bridge.

Thanks again RatRod

gawd DAMN there are some smart cats on these here pages! thanks to all!! i really love it here & need to make an effort to visit & share more often... it makes me happy- guess i'm weird like that. thanks again! - gretschoo

The only tools you'll ever need. :grin:

Ratrod, Thanks a million for this contribution. I can't vote ya up anymore, but I did give +1 to the post itself! PLEASE Bax, find a permanent home for this post!

Are there any sonic advantages to pinning a bridge or is the only advantage that it won't move on you?

Excellent tutorial, Ratrod! Great method, well explained and illustrated. The bridge on my Annie is already pinned, but if my next Gretsch comes with a floater I will definitely refer back to this thread instead of going with stickier route.

audiodrome said: Are there any sonic advantages to pinning a bridge or is the only advantage that it won't move on you?

It just keeps the bridge from drifting about. As much as I admire this method of pinning I don't have any problem with the three of my Gretsches which don't have unpinned bridges.

Ratrod, thanks for a well-documented (and well explained) 'how to'. Just outstanding!

Baxter, add me to the chorus for making this an article, please.

Very nice Ratrod! +1 for taking the time to document a job well done.

Thanks again for all the feedback, guys. This method of bridge pinning is the same that is used by Gretsch. So this method makes it look stock and pinned bridges from other guitars are interchangeable (in theory).

I think I've found a solution for those who have a bar bridge: Instead of drilling holes in the base, you could route some vertical slots in it. This will allow the bridge to move back and forth but not side to side. The slots should be at an angle (approx. 20 degrees) for proper intonation.