Gretsch Garage Sale

Neck radius

1

Looking for a new saddle for my 2005 Gretsch. Just measured radius and I'm sure the gauge is a 10. It's a Japanese 6120 1957 EC model. Is this correct? Thank you

3

Radii can vary slightly in actual production; 10" is certainly believable.

4

Thanks for the reply. Mine is a 2005 version. What bridge radius should I use?

5

That could involve a whole discussion. Why do you want to replace the Bigsby Comp that's on it?

6

Someone has cut 7 slots on it.

7

Well, that's wacky.

Do you intend to replace it with the same type - the Bigsby Comp? Or were you considering an alternative design?

Pretty sure if you order the Bigsby Comp, you get no choice of radius.

8

Open to suggestions. Like to keep the Eddie Cochran vibe.

9

For $10 +5.95 shipping, you can find out for yourself whether the current production Bigsby saddle works for you. If you use a plain G, it has the added bonus of being compensated for a plain G, unlike what they used back in 2005.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sad...

12

I'm in UK so have to pay import duties. Unless it's sent under price Have asked one seller on this link about stud distances and he said I AIN'T GOT A CLUE.

13

What about a Compton Bridge?

14

Elephant in the room alert! A Tru-Arc Serpentune bridge is the best bridge for my Gretsch Duo Jet. I've tried the Melita Reissue Syncro-sonic, a Gotoh tuneomatic / adjustomatic, an aluminum Bigsby and a Tru-Arc Stainless Steel Serpentune before I finally settled on a Tru-Arc Aluminum Serpentune. It's a compensated bar bridge like a Bigsby but on my Duo Jet the Bigsby bridge was thin sounding with a high piercing overtone that I didn't like. The Stainless Steel Serpentune sounded really good. It was an even tone but I wanted a bit more spank out of my Duo Jet. The aluminum Serpentune helps provide the sound I was looking for.

15

I'm in UK so have to pay import duties. Unless it's sent under price Have asked one seller on this link about stud distances and he said I AIN'T GOT A CLUE.

– BBB64

The first one will definitely work, but only if you use a plain G. The second one, I'm 95% certain will also work. The third one definitely will not.

16

Full disclosure: Tru-Arc is my company.

If you want to keep the pure Cochran appearance - as well as tone - then one of the Bigsby Comps Afire pointed out would be the way to go. Make sure you verify it has 2-13/16" hole spacing.

But those will only maintain the original appearance (and aluminum functionality) of your 612-1957 model as it was shipped by Gretsch. They don't capture what Eddie apparently actually had on his personal 6120, which was a custom straight-line (uncompensated) bridge he probably had made at a local SoCal shop. There's a very recent thread here showing that bridge, but I can't locate the thread at the moment. I believe that custom bridge is what Gretsch included on the Custom Shop EC Tribute model. (Your 2005 6120-1957 was kinda unofficially an EC model - because it had most of the features of Eddie's guitar, and enthusiasts knew it - but as Gretsch didn't have an agreement at that time with the Cochran family, they couldn't use the name and it wasn't officially an EC model.)

If you're not dead-set on maintaining the Eddieness of your guitar, and instead want a bridge that better matches the radius of your fingerboard, provides better performance with the Bigsby, and almost always improves tone (if satisfied buyers are to be trusted), then I'd be happy to talk to you about Tru-Arc.

(I wouldn't talk to you about other replacement bridges unless I could confidently recommend them.)

As it happens, the very first Tru-Arc that anyone heard went on a 6120 with Dynasonics which previously had a Bigsby Compensated Aluminum bridge. This happened at a Gretsch event.

I'd just gotten the first round of finished bridges before leaving for the event. A group of 8 or 10 guys was hanging around talking casually while another GDP member and I were doing the bridge swap on his guitar. We'd been playing the guitar through his amp to get a reference tone - not making a big deal out of it or even calling attention to what we were doing. We put on an aluminum Tru-Arc - same material as the Bigsby Comp - tuned the guitar up, and on the first chord, several guys whipped around and asked "WHAT was that?"

The tone was that much different - bigger, bolder, fatter, twangier. I was more surprised than anyone else. I hadn't expected there to be much of a difference in tone - only in the radius match to the fingerboard.

But the difference in tone - and the availability of Tru-Arc in 5 different metals, plus glass, all of which sound different - has been a big part of the bridges' appeal for 9 years.

I don't promise a big difference in tone - or that you'll like the difference. But in 9 years no more than 2 or 3 bridges have been returned because buyers preferred the tone of something else - and I have (I just checked) 454 testimonials in email form from guys who apparently kinda like the bridges. So the track record isn't bad.

Buddy mentioned he has the SerpenTune version - that's a rocking bridge that's fully compensated for most accurate possible intonation. There's also a Standard version which is not compensated - it's a straight-line rocking bridge similar to the Gretsch Rocking Bar (but available at a radius to match your fingerboard, and in all the metals). It's a little less expensive - and provides accurate enough intonation for most players, most of the time.

Anyway - not trying to selling you a Tru-Arc. Just giving you information! But if you're interested, my dealer in the UK is Deke Martin at f-holes (http://www.f-holes.co.uk/). I just sent him a batch of bridges, so he should have inventory. He'd be happy to talk to you too - and save you import duty.

17

Unless it's sent under price Have asked one seller on this link about stud distances and he said I AIN'T GOT A CLUE.

If he can't measure this distance, he can't sell you a bridge...

18

(I wouldn't talk to you about other replacement bridges unless I could confidently recommend them.)

I'm going to go out on a limb and mention another custom bridge, though I can't confidently recommend them. And I only do so because BBB64 has mentioned his desire to keep to the Cochran look.

http://www.comptonbridges.com/

It's a straight uncompensated (but angled) bar that looks vaguely like Eddie's. There is a selection of materials (less than Tru-Arc's) and choice of 9.5" or 12" radius.

But caveat emptor, IMO. I've been reading a fair amount of complaints about QC, like sloppy notches, and surprisingly unresponsive customer service as of late.

If you want the best product, best selection, and best service, Tru-Arc is the obvious choice, hands down. Normally I wouldn't even muddy the waters by mentioning anybody else.

Depending on how much you want to spend (or risk, as the case may be), and how important maintaining a Bigsbyesque appearance to the bridge is to you, then maybe a Compton or Bigsby saddle is right for you.

19

Well, no risk with Tru-Arc. They're always returnable for refund.

Also, grooves are machined on our bridges, so they're consistent in depth and profile.

20

"Risk" was a jab in another direction. Compton has a no-return policy.

21

I did not know that.

22

For reference, a Tru-Arc SerpenTune AL-95/SP-pg: aluminum, for 9.5" radius (available in 10" if necessary, though the difference would be slight!), plain-G compensation (wound-G available if needed).

23

Wow what a reply. The other thread was mine. What you recommend? Mine is a 9.5 radius. Would I need a 12 radius?

24

Better to purchase another base? Do you do a complete kit? Just sent one bridge back today as it was to big and was from All parts.

25

For reference, a Tru-Arc SerpenTune AL-95/SP-pg: aluminum, for 9.5" radius (available in 10" if necessary, though the difference would be slight!), plain-G compensation (wound-G available if needed).

– Proteus

Price In £s?


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