Electromatics

Does Anyone Really Have Tuning Problems With Electromatics?

26

I've owned 2 electromatics. My old 5120 was solid when it came to tuning stability. Of the three elec. guitars I then owned (the others where an American Standard Tele and a limited edition John Lennon 1965 Casino), the 5120 was the most stable - and it was the only one with a Bigsby!

My current 5422TG, however, is giving me tuning stability problems. It seems to like 11s more than 10s, but I still have problems with the bass E and A strings - which I assume is a problem with the nut, especially since they're going sharp.

27

My B tuner on my jet was wonky, enough to move a sixteenth or so with no string movement. I just had all of them replaced with Real Klusons. Comparing the real ones to the factory ones was telling, factory smaller shaft, too much play etc. They also had to ream the holes to make them fit, but now it's tight and right.

I also had the mystery / tusq? nut changed for a bone nut. Those two things improved the tuning dramatically. I also had a audio taper pot installed for volume, now it doesn't go from silent to 70% before being heard . Additionally, the output jack was always wonky and loose, even when tight, that went to a proper CTS jack.. For the money spent,it's a gigable guitar now.

Even at the price point of the Jet, these things should be better. Sometimes, the guitar IS the issue and not the player or owner.

28

Nuts, I'm late to the thread again. Anyway, I recently had a 'Zero Glide' nut installed in my 6120 and so far so good, not perfect, but probably the best compared to my other guitars as far as tuning stability when using the Bigsby.

I never did get to try a nut with the angled slots that line up with the posts. Wasn't there someone on here a couple of years back who was making those? I'd like to give one a try.

29

Sorry to be late (again....)

I had annoying tuning stability problems on my Players Edition Broadkaster Jr (2017). It is not an Electromatic, rather a Pro line.

It turned out the problem resulted from the sharp break angle of the strings over the bridge caused by the close proximity of the Bigsby B7 roller bar to the bridge:

30

I found a solution through a raised roller bar by Bricks Biggsfix: https://bricksbiggsfix.com/

Here is a shot of the "after" with the new roller installed.

As you can see the break angle is significantly reduced and my tuning problems were solved and have never returned.

I know of a couple of others who have had the same problem and have solved it the same way. Obviously I can't speak for everyone with Jr-sized guitars with B7's......

Here is the thread with the details...... http://gretschpages.com/for...

31

The projets with the B-50 offer the same problem. Too sharp an angle. I spent 10 bucks for a Reverend Soft Spring, and string OVER the bar. No skipped saddles, stays in tune and warbles like a finely adjusted strat. I love it the way it is now.

32

In most cases it‘s the nut. The actual Electromatics (at least the 5420) are equipped with a Tusqnut. Well done, they rarely need a dressing.

Honestly, my 5420 stays in tune for weeks (not played everyday).

One other very important point is poor string winding and too less string pulling before tuning. See picture above about the correct string winding method.

33

My 5420T is my first Gretsch ever and my first guitar with a Bigsby ever, Staying in tune was kind of off the charts at first....the bigsby and third strings bends were causing it to go sharp. After reading on here with others having the issue, I replaced the nut with a black Tusq XL. Definitely help the bending problem but the Bigsby still has some problems although not as bad. Was reading on here about a player who recommended dipping the bigsby after tuning each string. Made sense to me. Still, after tuning the string and then dipping, strings would invariably go sharp, no matter how many times I tuned and re-tuned. What I have found that works for me is this: Tune the string from flat up to pitch and then dip the bigsby. If is stays in tune fine. If it goes sharp, then re-tune up to pitch and then back off the tuner a very slight amount in the flat direction. After doing this, my experience is the string wont go sharp after dipping the bigsby. This " tuning down" to pitch is counter to what i have always been taught, but it is working for me right now. Unclear of the reason why . Kinda thinking there may be some issues the adjustocrapic bridge. Giving some strong consideration to a Tru Arc or roller bridge.

34

My 5420T is my first Gretsch ever and my first guitar with a Bigsby ever, Staying in tune was kind of off the charts at first....the bigsby and third strings bends were causing it to go sharp. After reading on here with others having the issue, I replaced the nut with a black Tusq XL. Definitely help the bending problem but the Bigsby still has some problems although not as bad. Was reading on here about a player who recommended dipping the bigsby after tuning each string. Made sense to me. Still, after tuning the string and then dipping, strings would invariably go sharp, no matter how many times I tuned and re-tuned. What I have found that works for me is this: Tune the string from flat up to pitch and then dip the bigsby. If is stays in tune fine. If it goes sharp, then re-tune up to pitch and then back off the tuner a very slight amount in the flat direction. After doing this, my experience is the string wont go sharp after dipping the bigsby. This " tuning down" to pitch is counter to what i have always been taught, but it is working for me right now. Unclear of the reason why . Kinda thinking there may be some issues the adjustocrapic bridge. Giving some strong consideration to a Tru Arc or roller bridge.

– p2gee

Changing the cheap far east stock bridge is a must! I would highly recommend a bar bridge, never ever a roller bridge!

Again, most tuning probs are a matter of the nut and the way strings are wound (and stretched!).


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